John Lennon’s Collarless Suit
item #938
This collection features John Lennon’s vintage, stage-worn, D. A. Millings custom-tailored 1963 suit made by Douglas “Dougie” Millings and his son Gordon. Pieces like these contributed to the “The Fab Four” emerging not only as Rock & Roll royalty, but as fashion trendsetters.
The Suit
This custom-made John Lennon stage-worn suit consists of (1) Beige collarless jacket and (1) Matching pair of beige, stovepipe pants with a zipper front closure. Both pieces are a pale fawn color instead of blue or black to signal a modern appearance.
The jacket has no lapels, with a flat front and rounded neck. It is accented with black piping on the edges and pockets, a satin-bronze interior lining, and a 3-button front closure and pockets angled at the hips. The back of the jacket also has two small vents that make it easier to perform in.
Both garments retain the original D. A. Millings & Son labels with a handwritten note inscribed on the coat label “Wardrobe John Lennon 1963 The Beatles.” Both garments remain in stage-worn, very good condition. The suit is also accompanied by two Letters of Authenticity from the tailor, Gordon Millings.
The Tailor
Douglas Millings, the father, was born in 1913 in the north of England in Manchester. He moved to London to work as a tailor cutter on Regent Street in the 1930s during WW2 and became a classically trained tailor. Later, he ran the tailoring department of a menswear shop on Shaftsbury avenue.
It was there that he met Tito Burns, an influential rock ‘n roll manager. Douglas was introduced to many entertainers and managers through his business relationship with Tito and made a name for himself with the modern cuts and designs that he stitched into his products.
As his popularity grew, Douglas knew it was time to open his own shop. Thus, D.A. Millings & Son began at 63 Old Compton Street in the heart of London. It was here that he managed to stay ahead of the fashion trends of the 1950s and 60s.
The Image
The Beatles started out as a group of rock ‘n rollers in leather jackets, playing in clubs and venues in their hometown of Liverpool. But their manager, Brian Epstein, had the foresight to change their appearance to a more wholesome look so they would appeal to a wider audience.
When Epstein suggested that they wear tailored suits on stage, he was met with resistance, especially from John Lennon, who idolized Elvis and preferred the band wear black leather jackets, thinking it was a more ‘rock and roll’ image.
“I don’t think John particularly liked wearing a suit – nor did I – but we wanted more work, and we realized that’s what we had to do.” -George Harrison
So, they performed in their leather suits for the final time at the Cavern Club in the Spring of 1962 and began a transition that planted the seeds of Beatlemania.
Ben Auden became their first tailor in Liverpool and deserves some credit for helping The Beatles transition to a modern look when he made their first mohair suits. The band was criticized by local fans in Liverpool, but Epstein kept his eye on the future.
Epstein knew the group had to be in the center of culture, art and fashion in the UK if they wanted to get to the next level. When The Beatles finally made it to London later that year, Epstein brought them to D.A. Millings for a fitting.
They stepped off Old Compton Street and crossed the tailor shop’s threshold where they saw row after row of immaculate suits, shirts, and accessories. When the lads were introduced to Millings, they requested something different, and oh boy Douglas rose to the challenge.
He showed them a suit that was similar in design to the Cylinder Suit Jacket made by Pierre Cardin in 1960. The band was excited about the look and Epstein ordered the suits.
The Millings’ collarless suits ended up playing a major role in the band’s transformation. The results turned the Beatles into a clean-cut, media-friendly powerhouse. Pictures of The Beatles in collarless suits were printed on all kinds of merchandise, including the sleeves for their singles, “Love Me Do”, “She Loves You”, and “I Want to Hold Your Hand” as they climbed to the top of the charts.
Letters of Authenticity
Included with this custom two-piece suit, owned, and worn by John Lennon are two “Letters of Authenticity” handwritten and signed by Gordon Millings, authenticating that this was John’s actual suit.
The first letter below is address to Chris Agajanian. The second letter is addressed to Mike Gutierrez, the previous owner. Chris Agajanian purchased the suit from Mike Gutierrez in April of 1989. Mike had won the suit in auction, but circumstances forced him to put it up for sale.
